Frequently Asked Questions

We are locally owned and take pride in providing services that actually benefit our customers and giving back to the communities we live in.  We’ve been in business since 2005 and are very proud of the reputation we have developed in NW Arkansas. We like to develop relationships with our customers and truly want to be there for their needs. If you have questions, our experts are here to help. Our owner, Josh Landreth, has a Master’s degree in Horticulture, and Ace of Blades is built on that knowledge.  Each of our managers are trained by Josh, and are experienced to handle your issues.  We do the right thing…ALWAYS.  We’re not beyond mistakes, but you don’t have to worry about us taking care of it when we do.  It might sound silly, but you can trust that what we say is the truth.  We refuse to sell you things you do not need, and the product we deliver is the best in NW Arkansas.

Our office is open 7:30-5:00, Monday through Friday.

We offer a 25% discount off your first service for new customers, a $15 referral discount, and a prepay discount.  The prepay discount we advertise for new customers is 10% and prepay discounts for renewed accounts is 8%.  When you bundle lawn service with pest control service, we are happy to offer 50% off your first visit for both the lawn and pest control.

We won’t turn down any form of payment! Seriously, we try to make payments as easy for the customer as possible.  We offer a discount for customers that want to prepay for the season.  We have an online payment system that can be found at the “My Account” link on our website. You can set up auto payments from the website, pay individual bills, or prepay for a season’s worth of service.  Our customers get payment reminder emails that link directly to the online payment system.  We are also happy to take check through the mail or credit card payments directly over the phone.  Occasionally, customers will bring cash to our office.  We are welcome to visitors anytime!

We are confident that you will see results quickly. It often takes 4-7 days to see your weeds start to die after the treatment. Some weeds cannot be selectively killed without also killing your grass. Please remember that what we do is a process, and not all of your lawn’s problems will go away overnight. We will work to enhance the health of your lawn with proper nutrient management. By enhancing the health of the grass, over time we will see fewer problems in the lawn.

All the products we use are safe when applied to the label specifications.  If you desire to educate yourself on the products, we are happy to provide the labels and SDS sheets to anyone that requests them.  There is a toxicity level attached to each product we use, just as there is to many of the products you find in your household.  Quite honestly, the toxicity levels are much lower than what people would generally think.  Things like caffeine, Tylenol, and many things under our kitchen sink have toxicity levels higher than most of the products we use.  Regardless, they need to be used safely, which means abiding by the label.  You’ll notice that our workers are wearing rubber gloves, rubber boots, and the Proper Protective Equipment (PPE).  Until the product has dried, your family and pets should stay off the lawn.  Most products have a 12-hour re-entry period.  That re-entry period assures that the product has dried.  The fertilizers we apply need to be watered in.  Our suggestion is generally to wait for the weed control product to dry, and then to water in the fertilizer the next morning.  At that point, I personally have no qualms about my kids playing in the grass.

Glyphosate (Round-Up) is a non-selective herbicide.  Meaning, it kills all plants that it contacts.  Therefore, we have very few uses for glyphosate.  The only time we use Round-Up is to spray non-dormant grasses such as fescue clumps while Bermuda is completely dormant.  Glyphosate has been in the news a lot the past few years.  The EPA (along with the European Food Safety Authority and Canada’s Pest Management Regulatory Agency) has confirmed over and over again that glyphosate is not harmful for humans and not a carcinogen.  Here is a link to their latest findings as of January 2020: https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/glyphosate

Our standard pest control service as well as our exterior only service is done on a quarterly basis.  We spray a perimeter around your house, sweep your eaves for spider webs, and spray around the baseboards and entry points inside the house.  We provide free service calls when you have our full service.  The exterior service is more convenient for people that have a hard time scheduling an appointment.  It does a good job preventing pests from getting inside the house, but is not as effective as the full service.  We do not provide service calls with the exterior only service.  The pest control service covers most non-wood boring household insects (ants, spiders, beetles, roaches, earwigs, etc.).  There are some exceptions that require additional services such as flies, bed bugs, extreme spider or roach infestations, and flying insects such as wasps or hornets.

In order for us to provide a termite policy for your house, we must first do a termite treatment for the property.  Once the termite treatment is performed, we issue you a termite policy.  The policy states that Ace of Blades would be responsible for any termite damage up to $100,000 on the property for the next year after the policy is issued.  At the end of the policy, we come out and do an annual inspection.  The annual inspection allows us a chance to make sure there is no activity, and if there is, to catch it before it gets bad. The customer pays a renewal fee, not for the inspection, but to renew the policy for another year.  This provides the same $100,000 coverage for any termite damage for the next year.

We cannot provide clearance letters or inspections without a policy on the property.  We cannot legally provide a policy without first treating the house.  For commercial properties, we can do commercial spot treatments without providing a full policy.

This might be the most frequent question of all. The best way to get rid of the mole is to kill them with traps or baits. We offer a mole trapping service.  The service lasts for 30 days, and we check the traps 2-3 times a week.  After 30 days, we pull the traps up.  If no moles are caught in the first 30 days, we will continue the trapping service until we do successfully catch a mole.  After the service is complete, the customer can elect to extend the service with a mole monitoring service or can start the trapping service back up again at any time.  We can’t keep moles from coming back, but we can kill the ones that are there.  Grub control may help to reduce the food population for the mole and temporarily keep them away. However, moles also eat earthworms and grub control alone is not 100% effective in eliminating moles.

We do offer organic pest control options.  Unfortunately, we do not offer an organic lawn care option.

There is no way for us to answer this question for you.  It depends on how frequently you mow and many other factors.  You should never cut off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when you mow your grass.  So, if you mow your lawn at 2 inches, it should never get over 3 inches before you mow.  When you mow more frequently, your lawn will get thicker and more dense.

There is also no way for us to accurately answer this question.  It depends on rainfall.  It also depends on the microclimate of your lawn (soil, trees, shade, rocks, slope, etc.).  A general rule of thumb is that in the summer months, your lawn is going to need approximately 1 inch of water a week.  If no rainfall occurs, it is best to provide supplemental irrigation 1-3 days out of the week to equal that 1 inch.  It is best to water for longer lengths of time and fewer days.  This is what we would call “deep and infrequent” irrigation.  This help promote proper root grown and overall healthier conditions.

The three main factors for the overall health, color, and density of your lawn are:

  1. Mowing
  2. Irrigation
  3. Fertilization (See above notes on mowing and irrigation).

Weed control is secondary to all the others.  We will provide all the fertilization your lawn needs, but the other main factors are completely outside of our control.  If your lawn doesn’t look like others, more than likely your mowing, watering, or some environmental factors are out of whack.

There are some environments that turfgrass is just not a good option.  Under your trees is one of those areas.  There are some species of grasses that are more shade tolerant than others.  However, none of them like the shade.  Over time, your grass will thin out under your trees.  In addition, the tree roots zap a ton of moisture.  Shallow rooted trees also have a tendency to erode soils.  When you couple the shade with the lack of moisture with an eroded soil, the grass has no chance to survive. Often customers will ask why the grass is thin when it didn’t used to be.  As your trees grow, these problems get worse, not better.

Anytime you have weeds or any issues, please call.  We are happy to answer all your questions and concerns.  Sometimes there is not a fix, but allow us to communicate what the issues are.  There are certain weeds we cannot prevent. For some of these weeds, like nutsedge, dandelion, and fireweed, our services are specifically scheduled to kill these with post-emergent herbicides.

There are some perennial grassy weeds that cannot be covered by our full service. Dallisgrass, for example, is nearly impossible to eradicate. It can be spot treated with Roundup, which will kill the grass around it. In years past, repeat treatments 7-10 days apart for 4-6 weeks, with MSMA was the way we could get rid of it. However, MSMA is now off the market, and we cannot spray it. Because of this, Dallisgrass control cannot be included in our normal service.

Fescue is an example of a winter perennial.  Because it’s a perennial, we cannot prevent it. People often call complaining that they have crabgrass early in the spring.  It’s impossible for it to be crabgrass, and most likely it’s fescue.  The best way of killing fescue clumps is to spray roundup while the Bermuda is dormant.  We are happy to offer this as a free service in the winter if it’s a problem in your lawn.  However, be aware, we can’t prevent it.

Our pest control services are performed every 3 months.  Our lawn care service program is set up on approximately 6-week intervals from February through November.

It does not take long for our technicians to service your lawn.  Several of our routes have ride on sprayers and spreaders.  These machines cover an acre in about 30 minutes.  Our technicians that are on foot should be able to service your lawn in the length of time it takes to walk the lawn back and forth with 5-ft passes.  If your lawn is 5000 square feet, this may take less than 10 minutes.  Each technician is trained to be extremely thorough, but also very efficient.

We do not.  Your lawn service does not cover your landscape beds.  We do offer an additional weed prevention program for landscape beds.  It is not 100% effective, but does help prevent a lot of annual weeds.  Once weeds are present in the landscape beds, we do not spray them.  Anything we spray to kill those weeds would also kill your plants, and we do not want to take that risk.

Fescue lawns are best seeded or sodded in the fall.  We highly recommend having hiring Ace of Blades to overseed your fescue lawn every year.  We do our seedings in September and October.  Fescue seeding, and certainly sodding can also be done through the spring.  We prefer the fall, because it allows the grass time to mature before going into the stressful summer months.  We would not recommend sodding fescue during the summer.

Bermuda and zoysia lawns can really be sodded year around. They can be seeded started in about May and going through the summer.  If warm season grasses are sodded while they are dormant, the grass will just sit there until spring time.  However, the sod is likely to be fine even when sodded in the winter.  We do not provide Bermuda seeding.  If you have thin areas in your lawn, the fertilization that we provide will help it fill in quite quickly.  If it’s not helping your lawn improve, then there are other environmental factors (shade, traffic, erosion, poor soil) that is keeping the Bermuda from thriving.  If that is the case, seeding more Bermuda is not going to fix the issue.

Ace of Blades was founded on principles of doing things the right way, both agronomically and ethically.  Most of our soils in NW Arkansas are limestone based.  If we do 100 soil samples, at least 95 will show no pH issues. There is no need for a lime application without a pH issue.  We are happy to provide lime applications when needed, but that is very infrequently.